routes set for you
Our routes are set for all ability levels, proportions, and style preferences. Whether one is looking to have fun with friends, climbing for exercise, training for outdoor climbing, or preparing for competition—we’ve got routes that are just right for you.
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Meet the crew
Routesetters are a unique mix of an industrial athlete, craftsman, artisan, choreographer, and product designer. They are well-versed in a variety of climbing and movement styles. They constantly evolve the craft as the needs of our community change and welcome your feedback.
Mitch Newman
Assistant Director of Setting
A tenured member of the Movement family, Mitch likes to offer cerebral routes with striking aesthetics. As a director of setting he believes that the psyche of the community and setting team are symbiotic, and that the offerings a team can produce should be based on what the community wants and needs. Mitch loves to climb in Central Washington, Eastern California, and Southern Nevada. When he’s not obsessing over a project, Mitch likes to play music, make cocktails, and memorize terrible dad jokes.
Brandon Conaway
Assistant Manager of Setting
Though often the quietest in the room, his climbs tend to be some of the loudest on the wall. These contrasting qualities converge into a setting style that has a bold personality riddled with subtlety. He tends to focus on the space the climber is moving through – rather than exactly how they move through it – often resulting in a range of possibilities that allows the climber to express themselves on the wall. His calling card tends to be found in the way he plays with different shapes and materials to “build” out the experience on the wall in an effort to create a novel and playful climbing experience. With over a decade of climbing and routesetting experience, he has been fortunate to work with a wide variety of talented routesetters from all over the country. This diverse experience is perhaps the greatest influencer on his routesetting today. When he is not working, Brandon can be found sewing a new garment, exploring the outdoors with his pack (wife + dog), or relaxing at home with a good (or trashy) show – usually while sipping on a good cup of coffee or homemade espresso.
Abby Wilson
Routesetter
Abby is a routesetter who likes to set climbs inspired by comp style movement. Often on Abby’s routes you will be exploring everything from big features to teeny screw ons. All to achieve a feeling like you’re playing. Abby is on a life mission to never be bored and in her free time. She likes to go routeset competitions, climb outside, surf, race triathlons, and bake cookies. She’s also a raging coffee addict.
Mack Peters
Routesetter
Mack is a student of movement. Growing up doing gymnastics, he loves pursuing different ways to experience the fascinating motor functions of the body. He strives to create an empathetic learning experience in the climbs he sets, but will be the first to admit he often comes up short. He loves feedback, so please say hi and let him know what you think of the offering! In his off time, he loves playing in cold water, pushing through various endurance activities, hanging out with cats, and exploring his identity in Christ more deeply.
Nick San Martin
Apprentice Routesetter
Nick is an easily psyched individual who cares about honing in on his craft to be able to provide excellent routes, boulders, and most importantly PSYCHE for the community. As an Apprentice Routesetter he is constantly looking for feedback to improve on, so go bug/ask him questions at the front desk! A lover of all disciplines but most comfortable when it comes to pebble wrestling (bouldering). You can catch him pulling on local stone/plastic here in PDX or at some of his favorite rock destinations like Hueco, Red Rock, Black Mountain, Yosemite, Leavenworth, and more. Spending most of his life in Arizona, he has a soft spot for the desert and limestone roofs.
Erin Rast
Apprentice Routesetter
Erin believes that finding creative beta is one of the great joys of life! After growing up as a youth climbing competitor, she now is an apprentice routesetter and coach. Erin’s favorite routes to set are crimpy and adventurous, and you can often find her in a bat hang. Outside of climbing, Erin enjoys running, reading, baking, and exploring the great outdoors.
FAQs
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Who is on my Setting Team?
Each of our regions has a designated setting team. Above you can see pictures of our setters. If you see any of them around the gyms please say “hi” and introduce yourself.
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How do I know what is being set next?
We post our route setting schedule every two weeks. The goal with the setting schedule is to communicate where our team will be setting so you know which zones will be closed and where to look for your new climbs.
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What days can I expect the setting team to be working?
Typically, our team sets weekdays between 8am-4:30pm.
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How long does it take to set a climb?
Each setter will build between 3-6 boulders or 1-2 routes in 4 hours then group into smaller forerunning teams for about 2-3 hours and calibrate the climbs to ensure all challenges are grade-appropriate and adjust for quality & accessibility for a spectrum of climber types.
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How does the setting team grade climbs?
The day will begin with our Head Setter mapping out the intended grades for each of the climbs for the day. Once the first draft is complete which we call a ‘Skeleton’ we will have the primary setter forerun the climb and adjust any movements and swap out holds to get us closer to the intended grade. Our primary goal is to ensure the climbing movement meets our quality criteria then ensure we are hitting our mark with the grade. We will have at least one other setter forerun and make adjustments to the climb. The setting team will have a conversation about the grade and place our consensus in KAYA.
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Why does this set of new climbs feel easier/harder compared to the last set?
It could feel easier because the holds are clean with fresh texture. It could feel harder because you have not gained the muscle memory just yet. Each climb is unique and could be presenting a unique challenge that might fit your skillset or be out of your routine climbing movement. Either way, we appreciate your input and hope that you share on KAYA so our setting team can better understand what you desire so we can make every climb a uniquely positive experience.
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Where do I report a spinning hold?
If you find a hold that moves or seems loose, let the front desk know and they will get the info to the setting team to fix it.
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How do I get into routesetting?
We have a company opportunity page where we post all new employment opportunities. As a department we are looking for passionate climbers who are curious about exploring movement and designing appropriate challenges for our gym users. Keep an eye out for a community event called ‘Setting with the Setters’ where our setting team provides a guided experience of what our team does to create new climbs.
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What is the minimum climbing ability for a routesetter?
We have found that climbing at least V4 or 5.11+ is essential to meet the demands of forerunning each work day and basic understanding of movement. If you are not there yet and have interest please share your interest to your local head setter. They might be able to guide you to become a contender for our apprenticeship program.
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Does our gym have an apprenticeship program?
We have training for newly hired seasoned setters but our apprentice program is designed to take a new setter who has limited or no experience and mentor them through a 6 month program. We encourage motivated individuals to apply because we have a system to train you to become a great setter.