routes set for you
Our routes are set for all ability levels, proportions, and style preferences. Whether one is looking to have fun with friends, climbing for exercise, training for outdoor climbing, or preparing for competition—we’ve got routes that are just right for you.
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Meet the crew
Routesetters are a unique mix of an industrial athlete, craftsman, artisan, choreographer, and product designer. They are well-versed in a variety of climbing and movement styles. They constantly evolve the craft as the needs of our community change and welcome your feedback.
Cody Hanson
Head Routesetter
Pronouns: He/Him
Setter Tag: “CH”
What is something you want our community to know about routesetting?
Routesetting is almost always a collaborative effort. One setter will initially create the majority of the route, but it is a team effort to get it to a finished product. We look to our fellow setters to share their experiences, offer suggestions, and give a different perspective than what we can feel on our own. A setting team should ideally have a makeup of several different skillsets, climbing styles, body types, and experience levels to help create an inclusive and diverse experience.
What is your favorite climbing style?
Tension holds on a steep wall.
How do you prefer to spend your time outside of setting?
Hanging out with my family, playing pool, and playing Super Smash Bros Melee.
Honey Gajardo
Director of Routesetting
Pronouns: She/Her
Setter Tag: Hyphy
What is something you want our community to know about routesetting?
Routesetting transcends merely slingin’ grips on the wall. It serves as a unifying force for our community, allowing us to share our passion and experiences with everyone. Each climb embodies our team’s collaborative effort, aiming to teach movement, encourage you to push beyond your comfort zone, and enhance your climbing abilities. We take great pride in our work, and it is truly inspiring to see everyone engage with and enjoy our creations.
What is your favorite climbing style?
Over the years I’ve learned to appreciate every climbing style, as long as it has good flow. Competition-style climbing and anything requiring high coordination might not be my forte, but I still have a blast attempting them.
How do you prefer to spend your time outside of setting?
When I am not routesetting, you can find me in any of the Bay Area gyms climbing or working out early in the morning. Outside of the gyms, I dedicate my time with my family. I am a basketball mom of three! My oldest child, born in 2015, plays competitive basketball, dominating our weekends with games (ball is life!). My second child was born in 2021, followed by my youngest in 2024. Being a parent is crazy busy, but I cherish it deeply!
Damien
Pronouns: He/Him
Setter Tag: Tilt
What is something you want our community to know about routesetting?
Routesetting is a collaborative endeavor in which we create movement for the community.
What is your favorite climbing style?
Climbing is such a unique pursuit. As I have gotten older, I realized I don’t have a “favorite climbing style”, rather I’m inspired by movement that challenges me mentally and physically.
How do you prefer to spend your time outside of setting?
In my leisure time you can find me playing billiards and indulging in delectable food.
Rell
Pronouns: They/Them
Setter Tag: Rell
What is something you want our community to know about routesetting?
Multiple layers of concepts and ideas go into putting up a skeleton for a climb. There are a lot of different nuances that go into creating a route or boulder problem that is accessible, creative, fun, and helps folks grow as climbers.
What is your favorite climbing style?
Bouldering is my preferred type of climbing but my favorite style is dynamic moves.
How do you prefer to spend your time outside of setting?
Usually, I enjoy working out or watching/re-watching all Star Trek and Star Wars content.
Sarah
Pronouns: She/Her
Setter Tag: Spark
What is something you want our community to know about routesetting?
Routesetting is a very collaborative and creative process. There is a lot of thought and intention that goes into each route and boulder.
What is your favorite climbing style?
I love anything with small crimps on slightly overhung terrain or on slab.
How do you prefer to spend your time outside of setting?
I try to be in nature as much as possible and enjoy reading fantasy novels and knitting/crocheting!
Keenan
Pronouns: He/Him
Setter Tag: Wild One
What is something you want our community to know about routesetting?
Routesetting is a science and an art. Sometimes we guess. Sometimes we don’t have ideas. We rely on feedback from teammates and the community to create fun, quality product.
What is your favorite climbing style?
Steep overhung, tension-dependent climbs
How do you prefer to spend your time outside of setting?
Climbing, board games, backpacking, other creative endeavors
FAQs
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Who is on my Setting Team?
Each of our regions has a designated setting team. Above you can see pictures of our setters. If you see any of them around the gyms please say “hi” and introduce yourself.
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How do I know what is being set next?
We post our route setting schedule every two weeks. The goal with the setting schedule is to communicate where our team will be setting so you know which zones will be closed and where to look for your new climbs.
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What days can I expect the setting team to be working?
Typically, our team sets weekdays between 8am-4:30pm.
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How long does it take to set a climb?
Each setter will build between 3-6 boulders or 1-2 routes in 4 hours then group into smaller forerunning teams for about 2-3 hours and calibrate the climbs to ensure all challenges are grade-appropriate and adjust for quality & accessibility for a spectrum of climber types.
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How does the setting team grade climbs?
The day will begin with our Head Setter mapping out the intended grades for each of the climbs for the day. Once the first draft is complete which we call a ‘Skeleton’ we will have the primary setter forerun the climb and adjust any movements and swap out holds to get us closer to the intended grade. Our primary goal is to ensure the climbing movement meets our quality criteria then ensure we are hitting our mark with the grade. We will have at least one other setter forerun and make adjustments to the climb. The setting team will have a conversation about the grade and place our consensus in KAYA.
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Why does this set of new climbs feel easier/harder compared to the last set?
It could feel easier because the holds are clean with fresh texture. It could feel harder because you have not gained the muscle memory just yet. Each climb is unique and could be presenting a unique challenge that might fit your skillset or be out of your routine climbing movement. Either way, we appreciate your input and hope that you share on KAYA so our setting team can better understand what you desire so we can make every climb a uniquely positive experience.
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Where do I report a spinning hold?
If you find a hold that moves or seems loose, let the front desk know and they will get the info to the setting team to fix it.
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How do I get into routesetting?
We have a company opportunity page where we post all new employment opportunities. As a department we are looking for passionate climbers who are curious about exploring movement and designing appropriate challenges for our gym users. Keep an eye out for a community event called ‘Setting with the Setters’ where our setting team provides a guided experience of what our team does to create new climbs.
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What is the minimum climbing ability for a routesetter?
We have found that climbing at least V4 or 5.11+ is essential to meet the demands of forerunning each work day and basic understanding of movement. If you are not there yet and have interest please share your interest to your local head setter. They might be able to guide you to become a contender for our apprenticeship program.
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Does our gym have an apprenticeship program?
We have training for newly hired seasoned setters but our apprentice program is designed to take a new setter who has limited or no experience and mentor them through a 6 month program. We encourage motivated individuals to apply because we have a system to train you to become a great setter.